Toulouse

During the era of Pilgrimages, Toulouse was an obligatory stop for pilgrims traveling to Santiago de Compostela (Saint Jacques de Compostele) in Spain. It should be an obligatory stop today for those wanting to experience France. Toulouse has been inhabited since the second century BCE; it was an important Roman city; the capital of Occidental France, and today is a thriving city and home to the French aerospace and aeronautical industry. The nearly 100,000 students of the University of Toulouse give the city vigor, and keep prices low. Its southern location keeps it warm in winter, and, while summers can be hot and muggy, there is nearly always a wind blowing. The historical city center is easily explored by foot and an excellent bus and Metro system connects the city center to suburbs.

The political and historic center of Toulouse is the Place du Capitole. The Hotel de Ville forms one side of the Place; the other sides are taken up with hotels, small shops and the best sidewalk cafes in France. Because of its southern location, the outdoor cafes are comfortable for nine months of the year. Strolling entertainers come by, the food of Southwest France is delicious and inexpensive, and the people watching excellent. Walking through the archway of the Capitole, or the City Hall, you'll see the plaque marking the execution of the Duke of Montmorency. He had the misfortune of rebelling against Cardinal Richelieu. On the other side of the Hotel de Ville, in the Donjon of the Capitole, the Tourist Office is open from 09:00am to 12:30 and 14:00 to 18:00 from April to October, from May through September it is open from 09:00 to 19:00, with shorter hours on Sundays. closed on major holidays.

Up the Rue de Taur on the opposite side of the Place, you'll find a lot of bookstores, inexpensive eating-places and other shops. The towering facade of the Eglise Notre Dame du Taur looks down on the pedestrians. At the end of the street is the Basilique St. Sernin. St. Sernin is one of the largest and most completely Romanesque churches in France. The Frescos above and most of the church date from the twelfth century. The barrel vault is carried to glorious heights here. The ambulatory is lined with chapels, where pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela prayed, St. Sernin having a large number of Relics of saints. The two-level crypt has a number of medieval tombs. St. Sernin, the first Catholic bishop of Toulouse was martyred when he refused to sacrifice a bull to Roman gods. Plan to spend at least an hour here. There are numerous statues, Bas Relief sculptures, chapels, and other sites. Sit in the nave and admire the work of a people who used only human and animal power to bring building materials to the site and construct a building 377 feet long, 210 feet wide and 68 feet tall.

Between the Place du Capitole and the Garrone River is the Eglise des Jacobins. Founded as the first Dominican monastery, the Gothic structure has single row of 60-foot high columns running down the center of the church. The fan vaulting spreading out from these arches make them look like palm trees. St. Dominic established the order to preach against the Albigensian heresy. The relics of Thomas Aquinas are interred in the church. Definitely worth a visit, the Musee des Augustine has a good collection of paintings and sculpture. Formerly an Augustinian monastery, it now houses an exhibit of Paleo-Christian art and good pieces from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Especially interesting are pieces that show the stages and changes the sculptors made as a piece of art progressed.

The first scheduled airline in France departed from Toulouse as well as the first airmail service between France and Morocco. Today the aerospace industry is thriving. Airbus gives Boeing in the United States the only real competition for airplane construction. The magnificent Corcorde was developed and built in Toulouse. Tours of the aircraft factory are possible. Contact the Tourist Office 05 61 11 02 22. You will need a passport or national ID card.

While in Toulouse, be sure to sample the foie gras and Cassoulet, two of the regional gourmet specialties. Confit du Canard, or preserved duck, is my favorite French food. It can be eaten by itself, in Cassoulet or in salads. The wines of the region are full and rich, teasing the taste buds with their variety. Although the Toulouse airport is readily accessible from the city, my favorite way to travel to Toulouse is by train. Trains leave from the Gare Montparnasse (TGV) and the Gare Austerlitz in Paris, arriving in Toulouse about six hours later. On the way they pass through some of the most scenic areas of France, with small villages, rushing streams, and wooded hills. This is the France you see in picture books. With all the students in Toulouse, you can expect to find a great nightlife. Start at the Place Wilson and follow the crowds, if you have the energy after exploring this exciting city. Toulouse is a musical city; nearly every night there is some musical event to entertain. The Orchestre Nationale du Capitole de Toulouse attracts international notice. In October you'll find the Festival International Toulouse les Orgues (organs). Of course, there is modern music also.

Toulouse, like Paris, is a city to be explored. You won't find all her secrets on the first or even second visit. There is always one more street or museum or other site to see. The Pont Neuf and the quais of the Garonne offer great views and pedestrian travel. Whenever you visit, the city welcomes visitors with open arms.
Article courtesy of Constance Montague